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after applying the sealant, many people trywith an accessory such as spoons, check card or also pastryscraper to deduct the fugue. in this way the material is smeared over theedge. for preventing this problem in former times, one has previously tapedthe edges with adhesive or masking tape. in this case one had a nice result, but let'slook at these joints close to: because of the thickness of the adhesive tape to the naked eye invisible, cracks remain top and bottom where the adhesion of dirt and soap is depositing. this leads to mildew and discoloration ofthe fugue.
you have a similar problem when using detergent or soap water during grouting. here, the liquid can run directly under theedge of the fugue and the material doesn't bind any longer tothe surface. a certain quantity of sealant is squeezedup and down in the smoothing. at these locations, the material has no attachment. this is wherethe silicone starts to get moldy. here we show you what happens when one works with conventional spatulas for grouting. these spatulas left behind a significant lubricating film above and below the fugue. if you pull with a check- or a plastic card. even with a very strong pressure on the area,
the smearingis still visible. with our "fugenstar" it is quite sufficientif you hold the tool with two fingers. please unplug the material onlywith the sharp edge in the direction of pull. thus, and only thus the release surface will get really clean. whether large or small ornamental joints,each fugue is getting perfect. here you can see a gap tile. the surfaces of these building stones are rough and porous. if you were to pull off here with a normalplastic or rubber, it would remain
a lubricating film in the pores, which you also wouldn't get away with a utility knife, afterwards. with the "fugenstar", you are doing only one line and this without pressure and effort. after many years, it has been found that a fillet is to be avoided as a connecting joint. on a fillet the edges are remarkably thin. when brushing, wiping, these too much thin edges are heavily loaded.after some time, the edges of the joint fray, silicone dissolves and starts to get moldy.
in this graphic representation it is elucidatedin detail again, why a fillet has to avoid urgently. at a fillet the edges are always so thin that they tear and fray by cleaning. with our joints in a convex shape, the edgesare eight times stronger. even with daily brushing, the edges do not tear. for avoiding a 3-sided adhesion, you put around cord into the tile gaps, so you can save material and the sealant canexpand without breaking. a 3-sided adhesion shoulddefinitely always be avoided. pay attention to the distance of the gap,the void behind the joint should be filled
the void behind the joint should be filled with pe round cord. it does not matter where you're doing start-up or drop off, go in and out at any time, the shape of the joint is always maintained. if you need even take out a piece of the fugue, refill this place and move on from thesame joint size. you don't see the beginning or end. the excess silicone, you pull it out of the transverse joint with the smallradius, once up and down, finish. here you will see a similar tool with a right angle. with tools that operate at a right angle, unfortunately, you can not overcome transverse joints. it gets stuck at each transverse joint - no matter in
which direction you're working. physically, it is only possible to bevel only one side of the right angle. when you hold the upper side of the tool atan angle, you get stuck with the lower side. and if you keep skewing the lower side, thenyou put firmly at each transverse joint with the upper side. and in this way we have solved this problem: the "fugenstar" has no right angles. because he has no right angles, we can diagonally hold down both sides ofthe tool for drawing. this system successfully prevents the slippinginto the transverse joints of both sides. here is a very clear example: the tool is tilted forward on both sides.
and you can cross all the joints like a sled. if you work in a corner, it collide threejoints. there are several options, one of them, you do pullout of the first corner, only in one direction, then you go into thejoint with the same strength, but this time not to the limit, but only tothe right edge of the already completed deducted joint.go from the right to the left edge and pull go from the right to the left edge and pull the rest in the other direction. it is necessary that the joint edges are clean,dry and free from grease or dust. then, one seeks out the greatest distanceof the tile space on the entire joint.
at this point, you hold down the tool withdifferent sizes, so that the most subdued size of the toolcan be used for the entire length. for a rule of thumb, it is important that the joint must overlap min. two millimeters from each side. then you inject suitable silicone into the joint. with the sharp, previously selected tool edge, the material is drawn in a simple way. after each withdrawal, you should remove excess sealant from the tool. in tight spaces such as behind the valve orfaucet, use the model fugenstar mini. the smeared material which may adhere to tiles or the tub edge, it will
have taken the next step and stripped clean. at corners, one always works first upwards,then from right to left. this process can also run in two steps, ifnecessary, by leaving dry the upper joint once, and onlythen inject the lower joint. please do not forget to pull, clean the transverse joints with small radius. in so-called round and expansion joints, the silicone is applied to the entire length. with the small radius is formed by the gap in overall length. now one still pulls away the excess silicone with the tool around the edges.
the same also applies to floor and wall. youfill in the joint sealant material and one forms the joint withthe radius, then you draw the excess mass with the tool of the tiles. at outside corners you wear on the material in sufficient quantity. the pulling direction does not matter. first you pass through an area, then theothers. at windows and doors it doesn't matter whether you are working with silicone or acrylic. after application, simply peel off only once. look at this beautiful fugue at the window. the silicone is injectedand subtracted only once. ready! anyone can do that.
and now i will show you that the grouting with fugenstar is absolutely really easy!!
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